We drive straight past the entrance and almost plough into a flock of government chickens - the hilarious name given by locals to guinea fowl that were once a staple food source but are now protected by the government.
We are so close according to our GPS, however we only pass one sign which reads Mushara Lodge and we’re looking for Villa Mushara.
We soon discover that Villa Mushara is right there, on the same grounds as Mushara Lodge. So we drive through the gate and enter the property. Immediately we see our first kudu, standing perfectly still like a blue-grey apparition watching us as we watch her. We knew she was a female because males have those impressive spiral horns but they all share the same vertical white striping along their torso and are graceful and statuesque, the females weigh around 170kg and the males an impressive 257kg.
We are approximately 600km north of Windhoek, Namibia’s capital city. Our journey starts with a flight from Melbourne to Sydney. Next, we fly from Sydney to Johannesburg and finally, the following morning after an overnight airport hotel stay, we board our final flight from Johannesburg to Windhoek. The excitement really starts to build once we hit the tarmac in Windhoek. We pick up our brand new Toyota Hilux, still with various stickers and plastic coverings attached and only 10 km showing on the speedometer.
So what’s so special about this location? Why Namibia? Well, I was born in Namibia so visiting for the first time as an adult has special significance. Namibia is also home to an incredible game reserve called Etosha National Park - here animals still roam free and humans remain locked in cars. Villa Mushara happens to be on the edge of Etosha National Park, about 8km from the entrance gate called Namutoni. This is where you get to experience wildlife in their natural habitat - something that is exceedingly rare and tremendously thrilling. The name Etosha means ‘Great White Place,’ named after the massive pan that’s sits at its centre and is visible from space.
Namibia has a rich biodiversity; a wild, rugged coastline that is the resting place of many ships, lagoons that support beautiful flamingoes, massive seal populations and some of the worlds largest sand dunes. Historic towns that developed during German colonisation are dotted with lovely colonial architecture and there is a great food and restaurant scene, particularly in towns like Swakopmund and Windhoek. Namibia also happens to be the safest and the least populated country in Africa. It’s easy to get around by car, but the distances are vast and the majority of the roads are dirt roads, so rushing is not recommended, plus you’ll be pulling over every time you see a gemsbok, a troop of baboons or an imposing mountain range. There’s also the sounds, smells and the stunning mirages and of course it’s a paradise for photographers too.
Three days later we finally arrive at Mushara Lodge. (We spend two nights in Windhoek and another night in Tsumeb, which is a small mining town where I was born, more on this in a future post).
The thatched-roof reception is deliciously African and instantly puts a giant smile on my face. I feel somehow cocooned and my soul is instantly nourished. Inside there is the bar where we enjoy a chilled rooibos tea while we check in. There is also a cute little shop that I can’t wait to peruse - they sell fine souvenirs, jewellery, sun hats and many useful items for travellers. There is also a very handsome library and a gorgeous wish-it-was-mine lounge, beyond that is the breakfast room that spreads out to a lovely terrace with views to the pool.
All up there are ten thatched chalets dotted around and reached via pathways leading off in multiple directions.
Off to one side are the two villas. We are lucky enough to spend two nights in one of them. We’re ushered down a stone pathway and through a low gate that says ‘private.’
Wow. The sheer size of our villa nearly blows me away. Laimi, the supervisor opens the oversized, thick wooden door and welcomes us inside. I can hardly believe my eyes. To our right is a beautiful lounge room decorated with mixed art pieces, patterned textiles, lamps and plants, a sofa and a daybed, books and magazines and back near the front door is a writing desk and handy items such as bags, umbrellas, binoculars and a torch.
A cleverly placed series of cupboards, that also function as a room divider house a bar- fridge filled with chilled drinks. There is also a tea and coffee station and a packet of house-made rusks - these are a dried chunky biscuit much beloved by all South Africans and obviously by Namibians too. Rusks date all the way back to the 1690’s. It’s basically a twice-baked bread that was ideal for long journeys and perfect for storing, it’s a preservation method that still continues today. The favourite way to eat rusks is to dunk them in tea or coffee.
On the other side of the cupboards is the bedroom. The most romantically framed bed I’ve ever seen that could comfortably sleep four, that’s how enormous it is! But luckily it’s only meant for two. Every detail is carefully considered and every comfort supplied.
The towering thatch roof is a work of art in itself and I can hardly stop staring at it. The open plan layout also includes a super stylish bathroom, a deep copper bath and lots of gorgeous towels. Finally, behind a concrete dividing wall that doesn’t reach the ceiling - a clever architectural feature that allows your eye to flow right through to the end - is the shower of my dreams. It contains no glass screen and no shower curtain! Simply walk in and walk out, that’s it. Oh and it’s exquisitely tiled too.
The tour continues outside. We have a plunge pool, a fabulous outdoor shower, an undercover seating area and a couple of sun lounges. Next we’re shown down a path that leads to our very own private daybed in a bush setting. It’s at this point I become overwhelmed with emotions - luckily, Laimi and Mr Fritz are walking in front of me and I’m able to somewhat hide the tears pouring down my cheeks. Tears of wonderment, joy and gratitude . As soon as Laimi left us I hugged Mr Fritz tightly and all I could say was, “wow.”
We book ourselves in for a 7am safari the next morning and I have no trouble getting out of my stunning giant bed, packing in my camera and heading off to breakfast. Delicious cooked-to-order omelettes is what I’m in the mood for, I choose a filling of ham, cheese, tomato and onion. There’s still room for a bowl of Bulgarian yoghurt topped with a dried fruit compote and coffee.
Salomon is our guide and driver. He is so cool! And very funny. We climb the ladder and settle into the safari vehicle and Salomon hands us thick blankets to keep us warm until the sun comes up. Spotting animals is one of the true pleasures of life and we thoroughly enjoy the tour.
Mushara Lodge serves fine food too. Our first night is a candlelit dinner on the terrace, we are served beetroot tart, roast chicken and a soft centred chocolate cake. The second dinner is equally romantic. It’s an atmospheric BBQ-style dinner under the stars. A large bonfire is roaring and the food smells delicious. We start with tomato soup and a selection of home-baked breads. The meat selection is generous and includes gemsbok osso bucco stew, which Mr Fritz says is delicious. Salads and desserts follow. The food is plentiful and it’s difficult to stop eating.
We sip red wine and take in this glorious moment when suddenly the staff put on an impromptu sing and dance. My goodness! Can they sing and can they dance. Everyone is grinning from ear to ear and tapping their feet under the tables. The rhythm and movements are impressive (I wish I could join in) and their voices combine beautifully as though they’ve been singing together their entire lives.
We chat to an interesting French and American couple next to the fire, she tells me she would have loved to have joined in the dance too but we’re all too white to move that well. After lots of laughter and a bit more wine we stroll back to our villa feeling happy but exhausted, ready for another night in the giant bed, dreaming of which animals we will see tomorrow.
Textures galore! Exactly what I love. Thatched roofs, stone walls and plants that can survive in this harsh Namibian climate.
Kneeling down for a bit of morning grazing. A family of warthog visit the grounds everyday. They are wild animals so you can’t get too close because they will run away. One day Mr fritz and I are enjoying lunch on the terrace after our morning safari, when we suddenly heard clip clop, clip clop on the slate floor. A warthog casually walks right past our table. I held my breath and grinned from ear to ear. Oh the delight!
Soon after we check in, we’re given a tour of our villa and the surrounds and decide to sit in the lounge, order two coffees and contemplate our good fortune. By the way, those biscuits are baked on site and are absolutely scrumptious.
The luxuriously rustic lounge where we enjoy pre-dinner drinks, usually whiskey sodas accompanied by salted peanuts. In the evening a roaring fire in lit which just further adds to the already intoxicating ambience.
The second writing desk. Just in case we both need one at the same time. Framed black and white photos add interest and a whole lot of beauty and just so happen to be Mr Fritz’s favourite. I love the painted concrete floor too, it’s so African!
Our lounge room. Breathtaking, isn’t it? The ceiling height and all the details are beautifully highlighted in this picture.
Our bedroom. The gorgeous, oh-so-romantic netting is lowered every night while we eat dinner under the stars. Lamps are turned on and bottled water is placed on our bedside tables.
Such a clever design. I absolutely love this open bathroom concept. The toiletries and bath towels are luxurious and the lighting is gentle. Notice the copper bath reflecting back in the mirror.
My dream shower. One day this is what we’ll build - in our dreams anyway.
Our very own plunge pool, for two whole days! Isn’t this such a luxury? Well, we think it is. It looks beautiful as it sparkles in the sunlight and it’s extremely refreshing plus it adds a whole other level to our experience.
